Historical Origins of Azerbaijan Traditional Dress
Historically, traditional dress in Azerbaijan goes way beyond just clothing.
In other words, they represent the ethnic history of the Azerbaijani people, the artistic style of folk creativity, and the different ways they've been shaped over time.
You can see all of it on those garments, which are full of artistic decorative patterns and weaving.
Believe it or not, but after learning about them, you can even recognize from old pictures who the person is and where they’re from. All you need is a little practice.
Needless to say, Azerbaijan traditional clothing roots go deep, possibly thousands of years back to the early Silk Road days.
For example, some remains of those wears, made of various silk fabrics, were found in the Mingachevir catacomb tombs dating back to the 5th-6th centuries.
People wore what they could make from wool, silk, and cotton - locally produced or brought by traders.
Every item had a purpose, from protecting the body to showing off wealth or social status.
Just like Korean Hanbok, Azeri dresses were also colorful, flowing, and rich in symbolic meaning.
But while Hanbok often used pastel tones, Azerbaijani dress favored deeper reds, greens, and golds.
Men wore wide trousers, long robes, and belts. They were functional but still elegant.
Ladies were all about layering dresses and skirts, and often paired them with fancy headscarves and silver accessories.
Kids' clothes, on the other hand, looked like the adult clothes, but smaller.
I’ll get to the bottom of that later - in every detail and names (I mean the clothes for men and women).
But now I’d like to say a few words about how attires differed region-wise long ago in Azerbaijan.
Regional Dress Styles Across Azerbaijan, Way Back When
There’s no need to go back to medieval or archaic times to talk about Azerbaijani traditional clothes.
It’s enough to touch on the outfit styles people wore region-wise in the not-so-distant past.
For instance, back in the 17th and 18th centuries, clothing in Azerbaijan wasn’t one-size-fits-all.
Instead, it changed by region, climate, and lifestyle.
If we break them down simply, in Baku, near the Caspian, clothes were lighter and more practical due to windy weather. Honestly speaking, they seem more fashionable than those in other regions.
People wore long, flowing garments, but fabrics were thinner compared to the mountain areas.
On the flip side, Ganja and Karabakh leaned more into vivid embroidery and heavy velvet robes with colorful belts and layered skirts.
Because of trade, their designs often included Persian-inspired patterns and brighter dyes.
If we go a little further north to Shaki, known for silk production, clothing was fancier, with shiny, handwoven silk and gold-threaded details.
Outfits here often reflected wealth: More layers, richer fabric, and standout headpieces for both genders.
In reverse, in the southwesternmost part of Azerbaijan, Nakhchivan featured more subdued colors and thicker materials. Because its weather is harsh in both winter and summer (harsh cold and severe heat).
There, wool and felt were the norm, and coats (arkhalig) were essential winter-round.
Meanwhile, Lankaran’s subtropical weather influenced lighter clothing but with southern flair. So they used lighter materials again, but often with more vibrant patterns inspired by nature. Think leaves, flowers, and water motifs.
That's all I've got concisely to say about the diversity of Azeri clothing styles throughout the country.
Now it’s time to get down to the nitty-gritty…
Azerbaijan Traditional Clothing for Males
Azerbaijani traditional male clothes can be divided into 3 parts:
Outerwear;
Headdresses;
And shoes.
Each attire part had a story and was often handmade with care.
Let's break it down to make it easier to understand.
Outerwear for Men
Men in old Azerbaijan loved wearing layered outfits. They usually started with a basic shirt and then added more pieces on top for style and warmth. As for those modeful wear:
Arkhalig (arxalıq in Azeri) - men wore an arkhalig, a long jacket that fit tightly around the waist. It was often made from fine fabrics like cashmere, silk, satin, or velvet. You can think of it as the national Azerbaijan jacket.
Chepken (spelled çəpkən in Azeri) is another Azerbaijan national costume (Azərbaycan milli geyimləri in Azeri) outerwear, worn mostly by women but sometimes by men in earlier times. It’s a tight-fitting, waist-length jacket with long or three-quarter sleeves. One of its best and most regal examples can be seen at the National Museum of History of Azerbaijan: the Chepken of Nader Shah.
Chukha (çuxa in Azeri) - a heavier, open-front coat worn over the arkhalig. It had slits on the sides and sometimes had small bullet pockets on the chest. The design was unique because the lower portion could detach at the waist, giving it a distinctive style. Chukha was worn by many Caucasian folks. These days, some dancers even perform in it in their shows.
Kurk (kürk in Azeri) - was essentially a warm lamb-fur coat that men wore in winter. It had no buttons or ties; you just wrapped yourself in it. This fur coat was just the thing for cold mountain weather.
Koynek - a simple, long cotton or linen shirt worn underneath everything else. It was soft and breathable. Even now, all shirts, for example, are called “koynek” in basic Azerbaijani.
Shalvar - baggy trousers tied at the waist with a cord. They provided freedom of movement, especially for horsemen.
That’s it about males’ outerwear. Now let’s move on to what they wore on their heads.
Headdresses for Men
Azerbaijani men in the past paid special attention to what they wore on their heads as well. Some of them are:
Papaq - was the most iconic male headdress (Azerbaijan traditional hat), usually made of lamb or karakul fur. It came in round or cone-like shapes and was worn especially in cold regions like Karabakh and Nakhchivan. Papaq also has several variations, such as Yappa papaq, Motal papaq, Shish papaq, etc. It used to be very important for men to wear a papaq. Men without a papaq were even made fun of. I think it was like that all over the world at one time. Even today, you can see them on the heads of older generations walking through the city of Baku.
Emmame (or Imamliq in Azeri) - a wrapped turban style that covered the top of the head, often made from white fabric. It showed maturity and sometimes religious status among sheikhs and mullas.
Eshar - A thin scarf or cloth worn around the head, especially by younger men or during work. It was more casual and light.
Arakchin - a tight skullcap worn under the papaq to keep it clean and in place.
After touching on Azerbaijani hats concisely, I’d like to say just a few words about men's national footwear back then in Azerbaijan.
Shoes for Men
Shoes were also a vital part of a man’s outfit back then. They were practical and symbolic at the same time.
The only traditional Azeri shoes for men were those called Charigs.
Traditionally, they were leather shoes made without nails or glue, soft, breathable, and worn mostly in warm seasons.
BTW, men wore Jorabs under their charigs. These woolen socks were popular in many Caucasian countries. Even now, people in Azerbaijan call all types of socks “jorab”, generally.
On the other hand, city folks mostly wore slip-on leather shoes, while boots were popular among the upper crust.
Azerbaijan Traditional Clothing for Females
Women's clothing also stood out for its elegance, vibrant colors, and layered structure.
Like men, they wore different outfits depending on where they were from, how old they were; And, of course, it depended on their social class as well.
Outerwear for Women
Outerwear played a big role in Azerbaijani women’s traditional dress.
I want to show you 2 of them below:
Komak - a soft cotton or silk inner dress, worn as a base layer. It usually had long sleeves and light colors.
Shalvar - just like men's, ladies back then also wore shalvar, but the women's versions had pretty patterns and embellishments.
Headdresses for Women
Lhacak and Chalma - Layered headscarves and wraps, sometimes paired with golden accessories. Erstwhile, they were a symbol of modesty and social status.
Chutga - Women would also hide their heads (not their hairs) in a thing called a chutga. And the back part of it was completed with an embroidered cloth, usually a kelaghayi, that reached the woman’s waist.
Shoes for Women
Shoes for women were the final touch that brought the whole outfit together. The most common types are:
Charigs - Like men, they also wore those handmade leather shoes; in rural areas, they were usually simple and durable.
Papagaj - Soft slippers made of fabric or velvet, popular among women in cities like Shaki or Ganja.
Meshin - type of low-cut shoe made from fine leather, often worn with colorful socks in colder seasons.
Again, Jorabs were also widely worn under those shoes by women.
Where to Buy Azerbaijan Traditional Clothes
Good news is that there’re several places selling national dress in Azerbaijan. You can head to every nook and cranny of the city to check them out in person, or look for them online as well.
For example, if you’re in Baku, head to the Icherisheher (Old City) area.
Shops here often sell handmade, high-quality garments like arkhalig, chukha, or traditional scarves.
Also, the Nizami Street area has a few boutiques that mix modern and traditional styles.
But if you’re not in Azerbaijan, don’t worry.
You can also try Instagram pages run by small designers based in Baku, Azerbaijan.
And if you want something for a special event, you can ask for custom tailoring.
It might cost a bit more, but it’s worth it for the fit and detail.
That’s all! Hope you’ll get some clues about the topic and find them authentic and easy to grasp.
For now, arrivederci!
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